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City of Mérida: Travel Guide – City of Eternal Spring

  • Population approx. 300,000
  • Altitude 1,635 m

The air is cool and crisp; on a clear day, the peaks of the ‘five white eagles’ – Pico Bolívar (4,978 m) and its neighbours – glisten to the south. Nestled in a narrow Andean valley, Mérida enjoys mild temperatures all year round, which is why it is also known as the city of eternal spring.

Mérida is known for its student atmosphere combined with colonial charm. The Universidad de Los Andes is the second-oldest university in the country, and everywhere you go you’ll find young people, book cafés and affordable eateries. There is a diverse cultural scene, but you’ll search in vain for a vibrant nightlife: apart from a few clubs, the pavements are cleared relatively early, even at the weekend.

City of Mérida: Travel Guide

The city centre appears clean and tidy, with many historic façades having been lovingly restored. In the meantime, much had suffered from the challenges of the economic crisis. As everything is close together, you can stroll through the city at a leisurely pace. The ideal starting point is the palm-lined, shaded Plaza Bolívar, around which several highlights are clustered: the imposing Mérida Cathedral – Basílica Menor de la Inmaculada Concepción, the Archbishop’s Palace with the Museo Arquidiocesano de Mérida , the Mérida State Government Palace and the University Rectorate designed by Mujica Millán. Just a few steps further on is the Universidad de Los Andes with the Febres Cordero Library , which is open to the public. Just around the corner lies the modernist building of the Biblioteca Bolivariana , which is also well worth a look.

Art and culture enthusiasts will find plenty to enjoy at the Teatro César Rengifo , the Archaeological Museum and the Museum of Colonial Art – all within walking distance. Historic squares such as Plaza Milla and the Columna de Bolívar, Plaza Las Heroínas (the lower station of the Mucumbarí cable car) or the tranquil Plaza Beethoven invite you to linger. For a longer break, we recommend the well-maintained Jardín Botánico or the Parque Zoológico Chorros de Millas and , which delight visitors with native plants and animals – both are well worth a visit. Anyone wishing to take a trip down memory lane to their own childhood and youth should pop into the Casa del Juguete – Colección Mario Calderón , which is unique in the whole of Venezuela.

The authentic Mérida – off the beaten track

If you want to experience the real Mérida away from the main streets, the best thing to do is take a stroll through the working-class neighbourhood of Barrio Pueblo Nuevo – or venture to the Cementerio El Espejo , a park-like cemetery full of old, impressive mausoleums. Organisers such as Estatuas de Mérida or Rostros de Mérida also offer organised tours for both.

For regional specialities and typical souvenirs, the Mercado Principal de Mérida is the place to go: here you’ll find a wide selection of handicrafts, textiles, pottery and jewellery at fair prices. Plus regional fruit and vegetables, coffee Coffee from Mérida: more than just a pick-me-up and the legendary sweets of the Andean region Sweet treasures from Mérida. A breakfast or lunch – how about trout? – rounds off your visit to the market.

Hold on a moment – haven’t we forgotten something important? Of course: the Teleférico de Mérida – Mukumbarí Cable Car

The journey begins at an altitude of 1,577 metres at the Barinitas valley station next to Plaza Las Heroínas and ends about an hour and a half later at Pico Espejo at 4,765 metres. The route is divided into four stages – particularly at altitudes above 3,000 metres, it is advisable to take short breaks at the intermediate stations. The stations are equipped with oxygen apparatus for emergencies, and medical staff are on hand.

The enormous temperature differences should not be underestimated: whilst it is a pleasant 25 to 30 °C at the valley station, temperatures at the summit are often a freezing 0 to -5 °C. A thick jacket and sturdy footwear are therefore essential! The best views are in the early morning; on particularly clear days, the view stretches from the very top down to the vast plains of the Llanos.


Mérida Cable Car: Breathtaking panoramic views of the Andes

An overview of the individual stations and stages

1. Barinitas, 1,577 metres above sea level, 25 to 30 °C

The valley station is located on the south side of the green Plaza de las Heroínas. Here you’ll find the ticket offices as well as a wide range of dining options. A little highlight is the Heladería Milla: Mérida’s finest ice cream tradition since 1972 , which has set up a charming ice cream parlour in an old cable car gondola. The ensemble is complemented by a small row of shops selling souvenirs and regional products, such as chocolates from Chocolates La Mucuy or handmade woollens from Ruta Lana Creativa – Handicrafts made from Andean wool – anyone looking to kit themselves out with a woollen hat and gloves will find what they’re looking for here.

On the journey of just under fifteen minutes to La Montaña station, you cross an agricultural area with sugarcane fields, coffee plantations and picturesque bamboo forests.

2. La Montaña, 2,436 metres above sea level, 16 to 18 °C

At the first stop, a café with a sun terrace invites you to linger – here you can sit outside and enjoy the view over the sugar cane fields and coffee plantations. The altitude is not yet noticeable, and the temperature remains pleasant.

On the next stage, you cross the lush green zone of the perpetually damp mountain cloud forest with its moss-covered trees, which gradually gives way to The Venezuelan Páramo towards the end.

3. La Aguada, 3,452 metres above sea level, 8 to 10 °C

At the second stop, which is already in the páramo zone, it is noticeably cooler. Several hiking trails allow visitors to explore the impressive mountain landscape, and a zipline provides entertainment for young and old alike. The ‘Chia’ restaurant offers fine dining at high altitude, whilst a café and small snack bars invite visitors to refuel.

Continuing on, you cross the Páramo zone with its Frailejones, the guardians of the Venezuelan páramo and the Elfenwald – a unique, stunted forest of low trees and shrubs that are perfectly adapted to the extreme conditions.

4. Loma Redonda, 4,045 metres above sea level, 0 to 5 °C

By the time you reach the Loma Redonda station in the high mountains, you’ll really start to feel how thin the air has become. So: take everything a bit slower – after all, you’re at over 4,000 metres. At the station, the usual range of food and drink awaits, including a branch of the excellent Páramo Café. Here you’ll find delicious sandwiches, sweet treats such as brownies and chocolate cake, as well as a strong Venezuelan coffee – Coffee from Mérida: more than just a pick-me-up.

As you leave the station, the patron saint of mountaineers, the Virgen de las Nieves (Virgin of the Snows), stands right outside the door – a popular photo spot. In the background, the Laguna Los Anteojos (Lagoon of the Spectacles), situated slightly below the station, shimmers turquoise-blue. A hiking trail leads there and invites you to enjoy a lovely excursion, immersing yourself a little in the high-Andean páramo landscape.

For those seeking a more challenging experience, the famous hike to Los Nevados: Andean hike above the clouds is highly recommended. The route, approximately twelve kilometres long, takes four to five hours on foot, but can also be covered on horseback or by mule – guides and animals (around 20 USD per animal) are available on site. The 13-kilometre route involves a descent of around 1,300 metres; experienced hikers take between four and five hours. The trail offers spectacular views of the surrounding peaks, including Pico Bolívar, and winds its way through the breathtaking páramo landscape, The Venezuelan Páramo, past ancient stone walls and waterfalls. Shortly before reaching the village, you pass through a small section of woodland. The route is not technically difficult, but requires a good level of fitness due to its length, the uneven terrain and the thin air at high altitude. Be sure to use sun protection (SPF 50 or higher)!

There are several simple posadas available for overnight stays. Both the Posada Bella Vista and the Posada Guamanchi have their own restaurants, and both can also arrange transfers. Complete tour packages including accommodation and transfers from Mérida are available from @losnevadosvenezuela.

The descent from Los Nevados takes place along a breathtaking mountain road. The journey, which is approximately 40 km long and takes around three hours in off-road jeeps, follows an unpaved, extremely winding and narrow gravel track. The road winds its way along steep mountain slopes with deep precipices, offering spectacular panoramic views of the valleys and the mountain range opposite.

Tip: Bring something for travel sickness for the return journey if you are prone to it. A seat up front next to the driver often offers the smoothest ride.

Anyone who has not yet experienced any discomfort from the high altitude at Loma Redonda station can confidently venture on to the final stage. A ten-minute drive takes you up into the glacial zone of the Andes. The landscape now becomes barren and surreal: hardly any plants remain, just lichens, mosses and the occasional hardy cushion plant. Rock, scree, debris and glacial moraines dominate the scene. The air becomes extremely thin – the oxygen content is only about 60 per cent compared to sea level

5. Pico Espejo, 4,765 metres above sea level, 0 to -5 °C

Once at the top, anything can be expected: from snow flurries to a brilliant blue sky and a spectacular view stretching down to the lowlands of the Llanos. Within reach rises Pico Bolívar (4,978 m) – Venezuela’s highest mountain. On the opposite side towers Pico Humboldt (4,940 m), the country’s second-highest peak. Pico Humboldt was once surrounded by a mighty glacier, which was downgraded to a mere ice field in May 2024 – its area had shrunk to less than two hectares. This makes Venezuela the first country in the world to have lost all its glaciers. A sad record that starkly illustrates the effects of climate change.

Important information for the trip

In addition to suitable, warm clothing, good sun protection with a sun protection factor of 50 or higher is essential – UV radiation is extremely intense at high altitudes. Ascend slowly and make a point of using the intermediate stops for short breaks with some light exercise. Avoid physical overexertion and heavy meals before and during the journey. Drink plenty of fluids, such as hot chocolate, and avoid alcohol. As you gain altitude, you should take things a little easier. If you experience typical symptoms such as headaches, dizziness or nausea, stop the ascent. Oxygen is available at the stations for emergencies, and medical staff are on site. However, the safest and most effective measure remains descending – simply ride back down.

It was once the highest and longest of its kind in the world (since surpassed by China, as one might expect). Over four breathtaking stages, it soars up to the eternal peaks of the Andes. The journey begins over villages and rolling hills, leading through gorges and cloud forests – right up to well above the tree line. From the penultimate station, you can hike to the mountain village of Los Nevados: Andean hike above the clouds, which also offers accommodation. Those who continue up to the mountain station are rewarded with a magnificent panorama of rocky peaks and ice. Once at the top: crisp, clear air, deep silence – an experience that stays with you forever.

Getting there and leaving

  • By plane: Mérida Airport (Aeropuerto Alberto Carnevali) is notorious – short runway, difficult approaches. Following a brief, promising reopening in 2024, it is currently closed again. Those wishing to fly must therefore use the following alternatives: El Vigía Airport – Your gateway to the Andes (Aeropuerto Juan Pablo Pérez Alfonso): About an hour’s drive from Mérida. Several daily connections to Caracas.
  • La Fría (near San Cristóbal): A good two-and-a-half-hour drive. Rather inconvenient, with several connections per week.
  • Long-distance coach (Autobús): The ‘José Antonio Paredes’ passenger terminal on Avenida Las Américas is the central coach station. From here, there are connections – some of them night buses – to all the country’s major cities (Caracas: 12 hours; Maracaibo: 5–6 hours; Barinas: 4 hours; San Cristóbal: 2–3 hours) as well as to the surrounding towns.
  • By road: Mérida is connected via the Troncal 7 (Trasandina) to Valera and Barinas, and via the Autopista Rafael Caldera to San Cristóbal and the Colombian border. The roads are winding but generally in good condition.

Accommodation

In the city itself and the surrounding area, there is a wide range of posadas (rural guesthouses) and smaller hotels, which are generally relatively inexpensive and cosy.

Our recommendations

  • Hotel Milla Suites has everything you need. A small, centrally located city hotel with its own travel agency, fair prices, budget to mid-range.
  • Posada Suiza , a cosy, family-run posada with a lovely courtyard and an excellent breakfast, mid-range in price.
  • Posada Casa Sol , spacious rooms, plenty of antique furniture and almost luxurious facilities, which come at a price; mid-range to expensive.
  • Hotel Sierra Linda , situated outside the town with comfortable and tastefully furnished suites and cottages, horse riding excursions, child-friendly, mid-range.
  • Villa Valcore , situated on the outskirts, exclusive bungalows offering the highest level of comfort (spa and whirlpool, Italian restaurant) and attentive service. Expensive.

Food and drink

Mérida’s culinary scene has two sides. On the one hand, there are some truly delicious regional specialities: fresh trout from the mountain rivers, the warming and hearty Pisca Andina, delicate Pastelitos Andinos and hearty stews that reflect the flavours of the Andes. On the other hand, the city’s overall offering leaves room for improvement. Simple snack bars serving pizza, chicken nuggets and burgers dominate the scene. Aside from that

Our recommendations:

Food

  • Restaurante Hostal Madrid , good Spanish cuisine, mid-range prices.
  • Caprara Pizzeria , delicious pizzas with thin (!) bases, desserts, mid-range.
  • Pizzeria El Mundo de los Quesos: 35 years of pizza tradition in Mérida , rustic décor, crispy thin-crust pizzas, mid-range.
  • Caprara Pizzeria , small, charming restaurant, authentic Mexican cuisine, mid-range prices.
  • Restaurants in the Mercado Municipal, simple breakfast and lunch restaurants, speciality: trout, cheap to mid-range.
  • Chipen Bar-Restaurant , a local institution in the centre of Mérida, excellent home-style cooking and seafood, cheap to mid-range.
  • La Sazón de Chalita, home-style cooking at reasonable prices, cheap.
  • Chía Restobar: excellent Andean cuisine with spectacular views , upmarket cuisine at the ‘Montaña’ cable car station, on the pricey side.
  • La Capellanía Café , sophisticated fine dining without being over the top, reasonably priced.

In between

  • En Alturas Café Bistro Bar , cosy café in the centre, ideal for coffee and cake or a light snack, mid-range.
  • Terra Nova Coffee: From the source to your cup , trendy espresso bar in the Rodeo Plaza shopping centre, mid-range.
  • Naturalis Yogurtería , a small shop offering homemade natural yoghurt, with fruit or muesli. Also available as ice cream – delicious! Moderate.
    Heladería Milla: Mérida’s finest ice cream tradition since 1972 , delicious ice cream without all the fuss, cheap to mid-range.
  • Heladería Coromoto , which features in the Guinness Book of Records with over a thousand flavours, including avocado, black beans and bacon, is rather pricey.

Nightlife

  • Garage Rock Bar , the (!) venue in Mérida for the younger crowd, frequent live concerts, excellent acoustics, affordable to mid-range.
  • Birosca Carioca , a bit more of a bohemian and alternative scene; alongside rumba and salsa, they also play electro, salsa and ska, mid-range.
  • Mito Brewhouse , a small local craft beer brewery, cosy with an outdoor terrace, mid-range.

Shopping

The Mercado Principal is an absolute must-see. The other, much older markets – the flower market Mercado de las Flores, the Mercado Tatuy, and the Mercado Periférico also have their own charm.

Mérida is famous for its aromatic highland coffee; top spots include the Mucucay Project and Café Deleitee . Another speciality is the cocoa from the ‘Sur del Lago’ region, from which Chocolates La Mucuy handcrafts high-quality chocolates and pralines. The latter, like Ruta Lana Creativa , which offers colourful, patterned, hand-woven woollen fabrics and clothing, has a small tienda at the “Barinitas” cable car station (valley station).

City guides and organised tours

  • Agency Milla , a knowledgeable and friendly travel agency, fair prices.
  • Estatuas de Mérida , city tours focusing on history.
  • Rostros de Mérida , guided tours led by artisans, market traders, artists or musicians – diverse perspectives on the city of Mérida.
  • Ruta del Café , bespoke coffee tours of the surrounding area, often combined with hikes.
  • Parapente Tierra Negra , paragliding flights solo or in tandem.
    Criollo Travel will take you to Mérida – check it out here -> Bocado Uchuva

Other

  • Mario Humberto Lopez chronicles everyday life through his photos and videos.
  • Excursions in the surrounding area

Mérida is the perfect starting point for tours into the Andes. Here is a selection:

  • Valle de San Javier and La Culata: Hike amongst strange plants and the clouds. Don’t miss: the Casa del Colibrí (hummingbird sanctuary) and the Bosque Sagrado (a ‘sacred forest’ with art installations).
  • Pueblos del Sur : A string of small, traditional villages south of Mérida – each with its own character.
  • Day trip to Mucuchíes, Apartaderos
  • Llano del Hato National Astronomical Observatory (one of the largest observatories in South America)
    Jeep ride to the picturesque mountain village of Los Nevados.

Practical tips

  • Safety: Mérida is safer than many other Venezuelan cities, but as always: do not display valuables, and avoid quieter neighbourhoods at night.
  • Weather: Mild, but the sun is stronger at an altitude of 1,600 metres – don’t forget sun cream and a hat. It gets chilly in the evenings (pack a jumper or jacket).

In conclusion: Mérida is a laid-back, green university town with colonial charm, and an excellent base for adventures in the Andes. Anyone who manages to catch the cable car or finds a jeep to Los Nevados will be treated to unforgettable views. The somewhat arduous journey there is well worth it.